Saturday 20 November 2010

Alexander Wang: Spring/ Summer 2011



New From Fifi....

ALEXANDER WANG: S/S 2011



What an inspiring collection. He never fails to amaze me with his laid back approach to fashion, but with 
intriguing attention to detail and great use of colour palette. 


T by ALEXANDER WANG SPRING/SUMMER 2011 LOOKBOOK PREVIEW








Alexander Wang‘s T collection is his basics line. The Spring/Summer 2011 season looks are packed with pieces that include in-trend colours like camel and beige, and the innovative designer's signature minimalist style matched with ruched minis, slouchy pants and baggy hoodies (heaven). 
T by Alexander wang Spring/Summer 2011 will be available end of January/February online @ alexanderwang.comnet-a-porter and shopbob.comBrownsSaks and many more online retailers so get ready to SHOP!
For now enjoy the visuals...
Images from fashionologie.com




Sketchbook preview... Stage 1


New From Fifi....



[The beginning] 


Here are some images from my initial sketchbook for my final year collection.

The process of the collection started out with me looking into ART and GRAPHICS and wanted to explore how colour can determine a design process- the design aesthetic/concept/theory/overall look.
I started to work over a graphic book I had been inspired by the pages of the book to determine a look and feel. 











[This picture is of a page from the book- The graphic of the page was skulls so I depicted my view on the 'death of tailoring' looking into the tailored pieces by Gilbert Adrian]



This was a great way to get into the design frame of mind...but inevitably it would not act as my main source of inspiration, more so a way of thinking about design. 


As posted previously the collection now based on Francis Bacon and the shapes, contours, lines, geometry, colour breakdown of his paintings and applying the design theory I have gained from the sketchbook above to start a new process of thinking and developing a collection.




 I would be going into more detail about this in the coming days and weeks leading to my final developed COLLECTION. 




The greatest collaboration?.... Versus AW10-11


New From Fifi....

 VeRSUs: Versace & christopher kane 



VERSACE's 'VERSUS' diffusion line was created in 1989 and had a defined focus on innovation and flair. It re-launched in 2009 and with that came a new collaboration with British Designer Christopher Kane as the lines Designer, and Donatella Versace as the Creative Director. The youthful glamour fused with rock-chick look is the lines aesthetic. 

The A/W 2010/2011 collection is filled with waist fitted and flared knife pleated prom skirts, sultry dresses cut from light weight silk and satin, paired with structured leather jackets and printed t-shirts to give it the chic rock look. 

This collection is Christopher Kane's  second collection for Versus. The collection is based on the 1990s rock ‘n’ roll culture for the edgier woman in us.


GET YOUR VERSUS CRUSH ON & SHOP THE LOOK





[Ribbed biker leather jacket paired with pleated satin velvet-panelled skirt]




[Silk satin and chiffon mini dress]




[Chiffon and velvet mini dress]




[Pleated satin-velvet panelled skirt, ribbed biker leather jacket teamed with printed stretch jersey t-shirt]





[Pleated satin skirt teamed with grey stretch jersey t-shirt: Photograph by Bruce Weber] 


SHOP @ NET-A-PORTER



Collaboration was also brought in from photographer Bruce Webber’s tinted photos for the Versus brand tees.In 1991, Peter Lindbergh shot an iconic cover for American Vogue. The feature involved all the supermodels of the time from Cindy, Naomi and Cristy amongst others. They were styled with black leather biker jackets and little pleated skirts from the Versace range. 
 This Versus A/W 2010-2011 collection also features the 1991 Peter Lindbergh photos of models  Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell that were silk-screened on to t-shirts and bags using a stone-washed effect that were matched with mini puffy satin-pleated dresses.


The Iconic Photo below...


[Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Helena Christensen, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Stephanie Seymour in Gianni Versace: Autumn/Winter 1991-1992, Vogue, September 1991, Photograph by Peter Lindbergh, Photograph courtesy of Peter Lindbergh]

I am in love with fashion all over again! 





Inspiring music...



New From Fifi....

Mirah: Cold Cold Water



This song has got me through the flu/cold bug and now im back on track.
Been really trying to figure out the direction of my collection, as I do not want to put out just any collection that does not represent me as a designer. I am really moving towards the minimalist creations of existing designers as Minimalist fashion is my favourite form of fashion...
Technical ability is needed, and a certain prowess with fabric and cut. I posted before that I was thinking about colour, and its still a strong point in my head however, I may use structure and cut to denote the sense of colour instead of actually just applying colour to depict it into the collection. I am really into what I call the -'white-on-white' look and this may gear me away from the gothic aesthetic I was designing towards prior, unless its brought back in terms of the detailing and use of lace and leather, and also the styling. 

Layering has also come to mind but I would need to pursue this further to make it successfully integrate with the collection as a whole.

But for now I am going to listen to my song of the week, maybe more, and get inspired. 

[on a side note this song may be the cause of my minimalist fashion thought process] 

AW10 Lilly Heine



New From Fifi....


LILLY HEINE A/W 2010/2011 

MATTHEW HARDING [CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA] FASHION SHOW @ LFW...



New From Fifi....


MATHEW HARDING



Thursday 18 November 2010

Styling of the Day...

New From Fifi....

NEW GENERATION 90'S GRUNGE...

These shoots of model Luna are lovely. Styled by Sila Guvan, they capture a playful take on 90's grunge into a more urban setting. 
Photographer Onur Dogu's shoot for October 2010 Marie Claire Turkey is very visually pleasing in its use of location, light and youthful styling. 












 [I absolutely love Dr Martins...My red ones are constantly on rotation on my feet alongside my All Saints boots.]  







 [these leggings are HOT!!]



[I think I need a fur coat in my life] 












This flu......ARRGHHHHHHH

New From Fifi....

Im missing out on some relevant feedback time with my fashion lecturers because....
I have gotten a flu bug....aghhhhhhh!!!
This time with them would have been soo useful as I really need to get my problem with how I want the collection to look out of the way and wrapped up into a nice little bow. 

I wanted to show my Toile's and my new 2-Part collection line-ups. One with the gothic inspired SPORTS LUXE A/W 2011...
the other the Colourful SPORTS LUXE ready-to-wear S/S 2011 

Maybe I should have just gone in and infected my class mates but instead I am going to use this bed-bound time of mine to research collections that I feel are successful and sum up where I feel my collection should go and what my target woman is...

(Goth) Daring/Edgy Vixen
or
(Colour) Feminine Bold lady 

Either way she will be an athletic woman who purchases items that are relevant to her favourite pass-time and also has a keen eye for detail. 







Collection of Day...

New From Fifi....

As a fashion student I am forever looking for inspiration on how to process a collection together and make it cohesive and successful. I have a great one today by New Zealand based Blak A/W 2011 collection. The collection is soft and feminine with a strong contrast of lace and leather to add edge. 

Though it is not what my collection is aimed at, I feel the collection as a whole is successful. This is their second collection for both the Luxe and Basics ranges which they have successfully launched. The style of the collection is very easy, flowy and feminine. The subdued black lace brocade and the signature red add a tougher edge. 
There are some staple pieces such as the oversized sweaters and the lovely capes. 
Though the two collections Skin and Deep (Luxe/ Basics) dont exactly break the mould or are innovative in all the sense of the word, the collections offer great pieces for a ready-to-wear wardrobe. 










































I want them ALL....

Available at www.blak.co.nz, Images from http://www.trendhunter.com/photos/93651/2#274




My perfect Bohemian Fall Look!!!

New From Fifi....

I like to think of myself as a free spirit who can be very daring and crazy sometimes...
the bohemian look definitely does it for me...even though its kind of a autumn  look, the layering would come in handy this winter.

These are my fav images right now by one of my fav photographers...






If I was a gypsy I would look like this..


















Images taken from http://www.trendhunter.com/photos/93651/2#285 

The array of Autumn looks were taken of supermodel Frida Gustavsson for the November issue of SWEDISH ELLE by renowned photographer Magnus Magnusson and styled by Robert Rydberg. 

I love the styling of the shoot from the chunky jewellery to the head band and of cause the layered items. I love the mix and match of colourful patterns and textures.  

I also want those cowboy boots and clutch...yum!!!!






Wednesday 17 November 2010

To Goth or not to Goth?.......

New From Fifi....

So I have a dilemma...
For my collection I have decided to go for the SPORTS LUXE concept with a Goth feel, due to the aggressive nature Francis Bacon (My inspiration) painted his art and his dark life and view in Life.
I feel the dark Gothic aesthetic would be really edgy and more fashion forward if done right using wools, jersey, leather and lace.
Black and grey are the base colours with yellow stripes to give it the sporty element. The yellow stripes element is inspired by the picture below (Francis Bacon).



My dilemma now is whether to actually go all the way Goth or to introduce colour and make it a more colourfull collection based on the colours from Francis Bacon's paintings, which would still be dark but not predominately black. 


 Solution...
I will produce two final line ups taking into consideration the two Colour concepts and from there will then see how to merge the two together or whether I could turn the two into a whole collection and produce a PR and marketing strategy.

Sunday 14 November 2010

Quote of the day: Robert Ross

New From Fifi....

" Since clothing is inescapably a demonstration of identity, wearing clothes- or for that matter not doing so- is inevitably a political act, in the widest possible sense of that word' 
....(Ross, 1993:12)


A great quote for my dissertation on: THE PSYCHOLOGY OF FASHION- A Cultural, Industrial and Social Insight
The aim of the essay is to examine how fashion has become a commodity and has become larger than just it being clothes to protect us from the Earth's elements. The daily routine of dressing has become a primary psychological element, where it has been installed into our memory and cognitive side of the brain so has become like 2nd nature to us, as was done by those before us. 
Fashion is an Industry within itself and the Supply and Demand of fashion has grown immensely. I aim to identify these elements and also analyse how brands and labels add to the need/want culture of today's society.


Friday 12 November 2010

A week later....

New From Fifi....

My thought process on my collection has evolved immensely during the past few days...hmmm who knew?

I have come to the realisation that I not only want to create a great collectiom, I actually want to create a line that I can develop and continue on from after graduation. As a Fashion and Marketing student I always thought that I would end up in PR or Buying...but I have come to terms with the fact that I LOVE DESIGNING...not just for the design point of view or the end products...but the actual process of designing and how everything can influence a this process or a concept.
 
I have been developing the idea of using the quilting technique to create great and exciting new garments that could be both aesthetically pleasing and functional, with a strong influence of sportswear but with the sophisticated new age feel of the Balenciaga A/W 2010/2011 collection. 

I am currently working on introducing quilting to trousers and to great big bombers and sweater dresses using the quilting technique to define the lines and forms from the Francis Bacon paintings I have been basing my collection on.

Francis Bacon
Self-Portrait
1971
Francis Bacon's 1962 triptych "Three Studies for a Crucifixion
 
Most people ask where the sportswear influence comes into the collection.

Well its by the image below. The yellow lines remind me of the strips of lines on the adidas logo and clothing brand and most sportswear items on the market. That influenced me to think about adding the element of sportswear through the introduction of bright yellow striped panels on the bombers and puffer coats and jackets and leggings that will overall have a dark and edgier gothic feel inspired by the aggressiveness of Francis Bacon's painting style.

Painting Title: Study after Velazquez's Portrait of Pope Innocent X 1953
Francis Bacon

  Im at the process of experimenting with this idea and still focusing on the shapes of the paintings through the application of the  quilting techniques introduced into the big wool blend and leather tailored jackets and coats with draped jersey and ribbed sweater dresses and high waisted peg legged leggings.

This is the collections direction at the moment, but with the design process you never know what to expect and how it would develop even further. At this point in time however this is IT!


Balenciaga - Fall Winter 2010/2011 Show

New From FiFi

BALENCIAGA FALL/WINTER 2010/2011 SHOW 


 

Im not sure what I feel about this collection. It has some standout pieces but im not sure if this collection represents Cristobal Balenciaga legacy and the Fashion House's Iconic status. Although it is clear the modern and innovative direction that Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has brought the label to, I feel that elements of the work of Cristobal need to be re-introduced and bring back that classic tailoring that he was renowned for. 

"I was working on something domestic. Casual things mixed with classic. And a kind of rigidity,"

The collection is based on cosmonauts and seventies Formica; Packaging and food boxes; Synthetic foam and plywood; Sleeping bags and biscuits.

Though there is no denying his unbelievable skill of innovation and trend-setting, I find this computer-aged sci-fi futuristic generation Balenciaga a little bit out of place with what the Fashion House use to represent. Even though Balenciago was an innovator in his day he kept the aesthetics of his collections wearable and flattering to the female figure, and had a luxurious royalty feel. 
MOST INSPIRING PIECES







QUILTING PUFFY GEOMETRIC PLEATS...LOVED!!!

My collection is turning out to contain these elements and this was great to see how quilting could be worked into a collection but still have a strong fashion-forward style and aesthetic.